Saturday, May 26, 2018

Chip and Daisy’s Blog: Rancho Santa Inez, Catavina, Baja California


Monday, Feb. 19

Destination: Catavina, Mexico

104 Miles



We departed the beach on our way inland to Rancho Santa Inez, which is in the central highlands area of Baja California North. This area has many eye-catching types of desert plants as well as mountains and large boulders.  We spent an extra day here to have time to explore and relax in this remote setting.



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We left at 5:15 am to top off our gas tank at this Pemex station—the last one on Mexico Highway 1 for the next 200 miles, an area appropriately called the “fuel gap.”  Our fuel range is 240 miles on level road. No need to take any chances.


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However, thanks to the entrepreneurial spirit, there were a few options for “gasolina” from roadside vendors who bought from Pemex to fill their gas cans and sold it at a premium price to travelers (mostly gringos) who hadn’t planned ahead.


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The regular price we paid for unleaded gasoline (not diesel) at most of the stations was a little under 18 pesos per litre, which was about $4.00 U.S. per gallon at the current exchange rate.



We joined the rest of the our parking group at 6:55 am to continue our journey in the light rain. 

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This stretch of the highway was among the worst, with potholes that were often deep and frequently too numerous to avoid. The only solution was to drive v e r y s l o w l y…


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We also had to watch out for stray animals that like the grass on the roadsides. After all, this is open range country.


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It isn’t surprising that it took about 3 and a half hours to drive the 104 miles to our next location. That included only a brief stop at a pull-off area for all of us to use the banos (bathrooms) in our rigs—no rest areas with facilities on this highway!


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We had to remind out group leader that, unlike the motorhomes, we of the trailer and truck camper type had to exit our rigs and put the slides out to pee. We could not go on the move!




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As we changed elevation and moved further inland, our scenery became more diverse.


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At one point a small roadside chapel appeared of of no where. Obviously some traveler felt that prayer was needed here.


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We encountered 2 wash out areas where the road was non-existent and under repair. There were no construction workers to provide guidance, so we just had to take turns with oncoming traffic.  If there had been running water in the wash, we would have had to turn around.


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Our parking group arrived in Catavina and the Rancho Santa Inez about 9:30 and until 1:15 we were directing the remaining members of the caravan into parking spots in this dry camping area.


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The potholes and bumps continued on the side road into the camping area. Everyone was glad when they were parked.


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This region is called the Valle de los Cirios, and it is a protected nature area. We saw lots of “flora” but not much “fauna” in our hikes in the land surrounding the Rancho Santa Inez campground where we boondocked.

As you can tell from my  attire, it was a chilly morning, but warmed up later.


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Our parking spot was next to the only other truck camper in our caravan. We liked having our friends Jerry and Judy Funk as neighbors.

 

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I was feeling a little better, but Daisy was coming down with what several of the rest of us had.  It was cold and damp outside so she decided to not help with parking this time.  I dressed warmly and finished parking duties at 1:25 pm and on my return to the camper found that Daisy had a hot lunch of sausage gravy and green beans waiting for me.


After lunch we went for a walk and took the camera of course.


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I almost walked into this jumping cholla cactus.


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The area is named for an unusual type of tree which is native only to Baja California except for a limited population in one part of Sonora. The first photo above shows four cirio trees, which have the nickname “boojum” trees. The nickname is taken from Lewis Carroll’s poem, “The Hunting of the Snark.” The shape of the trunk is referred to as an inverted carrot, and the top may split into multiple trunks or even have a curled crown.


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Boojum trees can grow to a height of almost 70 feet. They have lots of small branches that grow at a right angle to the trunk and are only about a foot long, with small leaves.

The top of this boojum tree was beginning to flower.



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The predominant type of cactus was the organ pipe, which resembles the saguaro except that it has multiple stems from near ground level instead of branching from a higher point. It was named for its resemblance to the structure of a pipe organ. Two years ago we saw these at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in southern Arizona, which is the only place where they grow in the U.S.

As the photo on the right indicates, organ pipes can grow to a very large size.



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The blue fan palms above are also common in this region, and they can grow to a height of 50 feet.

On the right above is a blue fan palm tree that had hanging stems of fruit, which resembled very large clumps of grapes.



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Some of the ocotillo cacti had colorful flowers at the end of their stalks.

This plant looked like it might be dead, but in one section the spring blossoms were showing their brilliant color.


 

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We also found a few cholla cacti, such as this one called a “fuzzy bear” cholla.


 

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The muted pastel colors of these blooms complemented the pale green of the emerging foliage. Nature is truly magnificent in its variety, and we were fortunate to be able to observe the different forms of beauty.


Announcements were written on the white board for all to keep up with activities.


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A typical dinner of home made tacos, enchiladas, beans, and rice was served for us in the ranch house. It was not especially tasty but it was filling.


After dinner temperatures had dropped to 48 degrees so no outside evening socializing took place. We ran the generator in the camper to charge the coach batteries and the furnace to warm up the unit before we went to bed.  It had been a tiring day of travel.  We called it an early night.




Tuesday, Feb. 20


It is still cool and damp outside so Daisy and I decided to make it a leisurely, healing  day. We stayed in bed until just after 8 am when I fixed  home fried potatoes with sweet onions, bell peppers, and garlic.  Over-easy fried eggs were added to complete the pairing.  There was an optional organized hike to see petroglyphs that we choose to skip. Daisy was still recovering, but after a short rest she wanted to take a little hike. We decided to more closely investigate the boulder fields near us.


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The lower part of the mountain behind our campground was composed of huge boulders, some of which even had palm trees and other plants growing out of them.

For example, this barrel cactus had found enough soil in the crack in the rock to grow and exhibit its bright color.


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The shapes of some of the boulders were interesting, and we speculated on what caused these two to cleave apart with such smooth surfaces.


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For some reason Daisy declined to follow me up here. She kept telling me to be careful, and I heeded the warning!



There is a state-owned operational airstrip above the campground. We hiked up to it and took this picture of our camping area from the paved strip.


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It was 59 degrees when we went to the general meeting but within an hour the temps had dropped to 48 degrees. We did not stay for the outdoor happy hour because it was getting very windy.  Back at the camper I made a skillet dinner of chicken, onions, poblano peppers, canned tomatoes, corn, and cabbage.


I still was not over my cold, which was settling in my chest—not a good sign. At least Daisy seemed to be getting over hers. We played with photos on the computer, read our e-books, and were in bed by 8:30 pm.  The good news was that our next stop would be a full hook up one, and we would be there for four nights to give me time to recover.  It was going to be the site of a very special activity for me and I was determined to be healthy enough to participate.


Tomorrow we will see…

Chip and Daisy’s Blog: San Quintin, Baja California




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On The Road Again, Driving Ms. Daisy…



Friday, Feb. 16, 2018

Molino Viejo

122 miles



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Our Escapees Mexican Connection caravan’s next stop was two nights (Feb. 16 and 17) at Molino Viejo, south of San Quintin. As I mentioned before, Daisy and I were members of the parking team, and we left at 7:15 for our 122-mile drive south through an area of mountains and agricultural fields.  The road was the mostly-paved, two-lane Mexico Highway 1. There were some unmarked intersections, curves, and conditions that required a speed lower than what was posted. Most of the side roads were dirt.



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We traveled through several small villages and moderate-sized communities on our way south.  They often offered cafes, shops, bakeries, motels, auto repair services, and fuel stations with gasoline and diesel.  It was a quiet morning. Kids were walking to school and store front proprietors were sweeping the areas in front of their buildings. The kids would wave at us and we would return the gesture.



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Here is a view of the Santo Tomas Valley, which is famed for its vineyards containing some of the oldest living grape vines from the Dominican Mission era.  These villages are also known for their large speed bumps, called “topes.” I was told about one in particular that the locals stop and drive around.  I crept over it coming and going.


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From our vantage point in the middle of our travel group, Daisy and I had a good perspective for her to take photos of the RVs in front of us. Sometimes other rigs, such as this semi with a heavy load, became the pacesetters for our caravan, as there were few places to pass. Often we would pass the heavy transports going up hill and they would pass all of us going downhill.  When encountering oncoming traffic you had to make sure you knew that our barely wide enough lane might be partially occupied by the large on-coming traffic. One rig in our group had its side mirror torn from the vehicle in a too-close encounter with an on-coming semi.



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Occasionally Daisy was able to take a photo in her side mirror of the three parking committee RVs that were following us. This particular stretch of Mexican Highway 1 was unusual in that it actually had shoulders, which often came in handy for avoiding potholes. The group leader would give a shout out via CB radio when hazards were observed so the followers would be able to adjust when practicable.




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In this coastal hill country there was no such thing a a straight level road. I paid attention to the road signs.



In the more gentle areas we encountered large agricultural production operations. In the expansive fields, Driscoll strawberries and other fruits and vegetables are harvested and shipped to the US.


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 And then there are the prickly pear farms.

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We passed military installations and a burrowing owl sentry post.



At 11:45 am, the parking team arrived at Molino Viejo, a popular fishing area. We had been assigned a large parking lot with no hook-ups as our “campground.” 



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This area is noted for its outstanding sport fishery and ocean beaches.



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Dumping and water facilities were nearby if needed. The challenge for the advance parking team was to decide where to assign parking areas for the RVs that would be using generators extensively and those who use solar panels and don’t like to hear generators. 



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The other issue was that there were soft sand locations and if you were not paying attention,  you could wind up stuck there. These were not marked. I busied myself marking the do not enter areas for those who would pay attention.



And of course with 43 RVs, there were also various other “special needs” that we tried to accommodate to the extent possible. We finally got all of the groups in and parked by about 4:00, so it was a long day.

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We would go through a similar procedure at each of the other  locations in Baja California.



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Molina Viejo has a fine restaurant and bar that have been in business on this site since 1887. My only gripe was that our first night there they had only one bartender, so there was a long line.  Of course he made margaritas and michaladas from scratch.  

I watch him make these and came up with my version of the recipes.

    Margarita

1 wedge lime

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) fresh lime juice

2 heaping teaspoons superfine sugar

1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) Triple Sec orange liqueur

1/4 cup (2 ounces) Reposado tequila

Ice

Kosher salt for rim of glass


Michelada

1 Key lime, juiced

4 oz. Clamato Original

1 dash Worcestershire sauce

2 dashes habanero pepper sauce

1 12-oz. bottle of beer

Ice

1 lime cross section

Tajin seasoning for the rim of the glass


Because it took me several servings to get this down, I might be a little fuzzy on an amount or so…



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Our parking area was on an inlet that was marshy when the tide was out…

…then filled with water as the tide came in. The following photos show the view from the back of our truck camper.




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This is a prime fishing area, both from the shore and by boat.


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We had a group meeting at 4:30 pm, then dinner at 6 pm with salsa and chips, guacamole, salad, shrimp cooked with tomatoes and peppers, rice, steamed veggies, and flan. One draft beer was included with our special meal selection.


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We enjoyed dinner at the Molino Viejo restaurant.  The meal was cooked and seasoned just right.



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This was just one of many beautiful sunsets we saw over the Pacific. Yes, the ocean’s name, which means “peaceful,” is fitting for this setting.


Saturday, Feb. 17


On our second day at Molino Viejo, we were glad to have time to relax and walk around the area, which had some great backgrounds for photos.


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We liked the statue of Neptune that seemed appropriate for the area.


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There was one form of fishing that was interesting to watch. All you had to do from level flight was to invert and dive straight down beneath the surface and pierce your prey with your beak. At least that is the technique that worked well for the pelicans.


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We checked out the full service campground next door, which had a great menu for their restaurant. We considered possibly staying there on our return trip in a week or so. They offered full hookups including laundry and Wi-Fi.


We went back to the truck camper and had a late lunch combined with a nap.  At 4:30 pm there was a happy hour and meeting describing the next day’s 14-mile drive to a “dunes” campground for 1 night.  The interesting thing about this destination was that except for the parking team that would go in advance,  the wagonmaster had decided  that you did not have to travel in groups.  There was a bit of discussion on this procedure, with the consensus being we’d just have to see how well it worked.  For us it would mean another early departure so we returned to our camper, fixed sloppy joes and broccoli for dinner, and turned in early.


The evening was just peachy.


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At least it was until 10 pm when the local young-at-heart came for their Saturday night party in the lot next to the dock. About 2 am they finished.  We slept fast, because we knew Sunday we would be traveling on “potholely” narrow roads.


Sunday, Feb. 18

Destination: Pabellon Beach RV Park

14 miles



Daisy and I had a short, 14-mile drive with our caravan to enjoy one afternoon and night at the El Pabellon Beach RV Park. We knew that the following day we would have a 104-mile trip southeast, over deteriorating roads, into the high desert country.


We left at 6:45 am in order to fill up our gas tank. We met the rest of the parking team at the Pemex gas station 7 miles down the road and arrived at the campground at 7:30 am.  The rest of the caravan, not traveling in group format,  began arriving at 8:30 am with the last rig in at 10:30am.  Getting ready and traveling individually was not a big issue because of the short length of the trip.



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Our caravan had the RV park to ourselves, and the cool, sunny day was great for beachcombing. There were a few full-hookup sites and also hot showers available.  




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There were high sand dunes between our parking area and the Pacific Ocean beach, which provided a beautiful and relaxing location.


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We took a walk on the beach and found two almost perfect sand dollars.

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After our walk, Daisy and I went back to our truck camper for a little rest. I was getting over a cold and Daisy was starting to get it. There are some things we would rather not share!


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We weren’t the only ones enjoying a day at the beach however!



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In the evening, the caravan provided a tamale feast, with everyone bringing a side dish or dessert.


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As the sun began to set I looked frantically for Daisy so she wouldn’t miss any pictures. Then I found her.



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I need not have worried.  My sun goddess was already in worship.

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This was another dramatic sunset over the ocean with the dunes in the foreground.


The only sounds we heard that night were the wind, waves, and wails of the seagulls.  We are blessed.


We notched in our memories this isolated Baja paradise as a place to come back to.


The next day another adventure awaited…