When our Viking longship arrived on Friday, July 28, in Cologne, the fourth largest city in Germany, I was feeling the effects of a cold. I decided to sleep in while Daisy went on the included walking tour of the city. We both had the afternoon to get some rest before our optional Beer Culture Dinner in the evening.
Day 13, Friday, July 28
This was our early morning view of Cologne (Koln) from our stateroom. with the Cologne Cathedral on the right. Cologne was founded in 38 BC and was a cornerstone of the Roman Empire in northern Europe. Its location on the Rhine River placed Cologne at the intersection of major trade routes and became the basis for its economic growth. The most crucial date in Cologne’s medieval history was 1164, when what are supposedly relics of the Three Magi were presented to the archbishop. This resulted in countless pilgrims filling the city’s coffers, which financed the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe.
The Cologne Cathedral was begun in 1248 and its chancel was consecrated in 1322. Thereafter, work on the nave and transepts proceeded sporadically until finally being abandoned in 1560. In 1843, Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia inaugurated a new construction campaign that led to the completion of the two 510-foot-tall west spires in 1880.
This is a work of art.
During World War II, Cologne endured 262 air raids by the Western Allies, which caused approximately 20,000 civilian casualties with 72% of the city being destroyed. The bombardments almost completely wiped out the central part of the city. However, as this U.S. Army photo from April 1945 shows, the Cologne Cathedral received serious damage but the main structure survived almost unscathed. It has been reported that Allied bombers were instructed to avoid the Cathedral when possible because it served as an excellent navigational landmark.
The interior of the Cologne Cathedral is a defining work of High Gothic architecture. It is about 470 feet long, 145 feet wide, and a stunning 141 feet high. On the upper left side is the “swallows’ nest” organ that was built into the gallery in 1998 to celebrate the 750th anniversary of the initial building. The Cathedral was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 and is Germany’s most visited landmark.
The Cathedral has many beautiful stained-glass windows, some of which were removed and stored for protection during World War II.
The window in the south transept was destroyed by the bombing, and the space was temporarily filled with plain glass. In 2007, the cathedral received a new stained-glass window, created by the German artist Gerhard Richter. It has 1,220 square feet of glass, composed of 11,500 4” by 4” squares of colored glass resembling pixels, randomly arranged by computer, which create a colorful "carpet.” This window design has been controversial, with some people seeing it as sacrilegious and others as a bridge to the 21st century.
South Transept Window
The Old Market Square features the large Heinzelmännchen Fountain, which was built in 1899. Its center statue and carved panels tell the story of the Heinzelmännchen, the little people who did all the work at night so that the people of Cologne could laze around during the day. No one ever saw them, and in return for the work, one of their demands was that they were never to be seen or disturbed. During this time, there was a tailor to whom the gnomes took a liking. When the tailor’s family increased in size, the little ones gave the tailor’s wife much help with her household tasks. One night the she became too curious and wanted to see one of these Heinzelmännchen. She spilled some dried peas on the stairs to make them trip and fall so that she could see them during the day. Needless to say, the Heinzelmännchen were not pleased and they left town and never came back again. From then on, the citizens of Cologne had to do all the work themselves.
Our new friend Debbie took this picture of Daisy in the Old Market Square by the Heinzelmännchen Fountain.
Heinzelmännchen Fountain
In the center of the Alter Markt, the biggest square in Cologne’s old town, stands a fountain with a statue of Jan van Werth that dates to 1884.
The stone statue of Jan van Werth is on a gothic column. The seated figures on the north and south side represent the valor and purity of the city of Cologne: the Cologne Farmer and the Cologne Virgin.
Then there are two stone plaques that supposedly tell a personal story of the German General of Cavalry, Jan Van Werth, a local hero. His life became a popular legend in the Rhineland and Cologne that is reenacted at carnival time.
The legend goes like this…
The poor peasant Jan fell in love with Griet, another poor peasant, but she wanted a wealthier partner and declined his offer of marriage. Devastated by her rejection he came upon an army recruiter and signed up to go to war. Through hard work and good fortune he rose to become a general, celebrating several victories.
After taking the fort at Hermannstein he was leading his triumphant troops into Cologne through St. Severin's Gate when he saw his former love Griet selling fruit at a market. Griet was filled with regret at turning down such a successful person and exclaimed "Jan, who would have thought it?" To this, he replied "Griet, the person who should have done it!" and turned away.
Town Hall
On the other side of the square there was a more modern story taking place concerning marriage procedures in Cologne. At the Old Town Hall, there were small clusters of people with wedding gowns and flowers departing from the Hall after being officially married by the judicial powers.
It seems that this was the second marriage ceremony each couple had done that day. You are allowed to get married in a church or other setting but to make it legal, a ceremony had to be performed in the Old Town Hall officiated by the city legal authority. Upon leaving, drinks would be consumed in the courtyard toasting the couple after some informal practice took place. Our group observed a large heart being cut out of a decorated sheet by the newly married couple. After this, the groom stepped through the heart carrying the bride.
Daisy and Debbie shopped a bit of course, then returned to the ship for lunch and a rest. We had signed up for a Friday night “Beer Culture Dinner,” so a rest period was called for.
That evening, we participated in an opportunity to immerse ourselves in Cologne’s lively brauhaus culture and sample the pride of the city. We strolled through the Old Town’s cobblestone streets with their many sidewalk cafes.
At our first stop, the Colner Hofbrau Fruh, we had dinner with our friend Debbie and our first opportunity to sip Kolsch fresh from the barrel. Kolsch is produced by about 25 breweries in the city. On this dinner tour we visited and sampled 3 of them.
Today's German beer connoisseurs tend to be loyal to a style rather than a brand of beer. Kolsch beer is one of the many styles and is served chilled and fresh by waiters called kobes. they carry the Kolsch to your table on a circular tray called a crown, which is designed for the Kolsch glasses, called stangen.
Marinated beef with dumplings and stewed apples were the main course.
Kolsch is not only the name of Cologne’s famous light and crisp beer, it is also the name of the local dialect. This has led to the common joke of Kolsch being the only language one can drink.
This photo was taken at our second brew house. Our tour guide is on the left, and on the right our server has the traditional tray that holds a dozen glasses, each of which contains only .2 liter (about 7 ounces). This is small enough that you can finish the beer while it is still cold.
Chip and Debbie were sharing brews with more of our new friends. It was Friday night in Cologne, and it was fun to be bar hopping with not only tourists but also the local citizens.
The coasters at this and other brew houses served an additional purpose. As long as your coaster is under your glass, the server will keep replacing your empty glass with a full one. The only way to prevent this is to put your coaster on top of your empty glass!
There was a sign on the wall that read ”Good food and drink keep body and soul together.” We agree!
We got back to our ship about 10:00 p.m. The departure had been delayed so that everyone could enjoy a special evening this exciting city.
We went to the upper deck to watch our ship sail past the downtown area, and Daisy took this photo as we said goodbye to the Cologne Cathedral with its dramatic lighting.
Cologne is known for its Roman heritage in its city layout and its modern plaza and ancient ruins host enticing restaurants, cologne boutiques, and Kolsch brewhouses. This is a city to return to.
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