Chip and Daisy’s Blog: Kinderdijk, Netherlands

Our final day on the Viking Magni was Saturday, July 29, and we were in a new country, the Netherlands. The morning was spent sailing the bucolic waters of the Rhine deep into the Rhine-Meuse-Scheldt Delta, through classic Dutch landscapes. In the rainy, early afternoon, we landed in Kinderdijk, and Daisy and I joined our shipmates for an included shore excursion.

Day 14, Saturday,  July 29

Of course my day started with a meager breakfast.  Daisy decided to sleep in, so I was on my own this morning.  We were still cruising and had not arrived at our dock for the day.  I had a good meal of hot tea, pickled herring, bacon, scrambled eggs, mushrooms, melon, and pastry.

By lunch time Daisy was looking forward to a light meal. 

Shrimp cocktail and melon and ham came from the buffet. 

From the waiter we ordered from the chef freshly prepared Rigatoni Alla Romana which featured spinach added to prosciutto, garlic. and pasta.

For dessert there was Dutch stroopwafel with ice cream.

Soon after lunch we docked, and from the ship we took a short walk to the windmills.

Located where the Lek and Noord Rivers meet, Kinderdijk is a village among low-lying tracts of land reclaimed from the sea by the power of water-pumping windmills and enclosed by dikes.

Kinderdijk is most known for its 19 remarkably preserved mid-18^th-century windmills, which caused this area to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The windmills are at a lower elevation than the river, because much of this part of the Netherlands is below sea level.

The windmills of Kinderdijk were used by the Dutch to assist in their fight against the sea by pumping water out of the low lands through a series of canals and reservoirs then back into the sea so that the low lands could be farmed and houses built. They are used to drain and protect the developed land areas.  The windmills can also be used for milling corn and lumber. This is the only place in the world with so many windmills so close together.

It was raining on the day of our tour, but this was one of the things I especially wanted to see on this river cruise.  One of the windmills is open for tours, and we were able to climb the steep ladder-like stairs to see the mechanical workings as well as the living quarters of the family who kept the mill in working order.  This particular one we visited highlighted one family that lived there. They had 13 children in a crowded area. 

This photo shows part of the very small living room, and the next photo is a recessed bed for the parents, covered by a curtain. No space for a king-sized bed, and certainly not a master bedroom!

Next is an example of a child’s bed, again built into the wall. It reminded us of a bunk bed in an RV.  The dining room table was also a work table.

We saw  windmills from a number of different angles, and from any perspective it was a dramatic view.

Before we left this area I asked the guide about the unusual name for the area and its windmills. Here is the story that he related..

There was a major storm causing flooding in 1421 which threatened the windmills and dikes in the area.  When the terrible storm with its high winds subsided, a man went to check on the stability of a canal dike between two areas that were used as holding ponds to see what could be saved. As he neared the dike, he saw a wooden child's cradle floating on the water in the canal. As it came nearer, some movement was detected. He saw a cat in the cradle trying to keep it in balance by jumping back and forth so that no water could get into it. As the cradle eventually came close enough to the dike for the inspector to pick up the cradle, he saw that a baby girl was quietly sleeping inside it, nice and dry.It seems that the cat had kept the cradle balanced and afloat. The dike and area was identified since then as “children’s dike” or Kinderdijk.

There was a bus waiting for a small group of us to take an optional tour to learn about Dutch cheese making. We drove through the countryside and saw attractive houses on the banks of the canals.

This was definitely an agricultural area, and we saw fields of corn and wheat and dairy cows grazing in the meadows.

Our destination was the Kuiper Cheese and Dairy Farm in the municipality of Giessenlanden. Jan and Thera Kuiper’s ancestors have farmed in this area for several generations, and in 1975 they started their own cheese factory. They raise 150 calves and milk 250 dairy cows. Thera gave us a tour of the factory and described the cheese-making process.

The base cheese that they make is gouda, and they use many different flavorings to add variety. After we sampled a large number of their cheeses, we bought a two-pound round of Paprika Garlic Gouda to bring home.

In addition to touring the cheese factory, we also got to see the barns where the cows and calves spend part of their time. There was even a “maternity ward” where the cows who were about to calve could be closely monitored.

While we were touring, our ship had sailed to Rotterdam, and our bus took us there to meet it. This was our last night on the ship, and we were on board in time for the Farewell Dinner. All four courses were excellent, and the Surf and Turf entrée featured a perfectly-cooked filet mignon and lobster tail. It was accompanied by a full-bodied French Burgundy.

Salmon Tartar and Pumpkin Mousse Ravioli with Lamb Loin and sweet chili sauce

 

Surf and Turf with vegetables Julienne, truffled potato mash, and a red wine sauce. Dessert: Chocolate Tart

The best part of the dinner, though, was time spent with special friends we had made on this wonderful journey.  This was our last night on the ship. Our last river port would be Amsterdam.

Chip and Daisy’s Blog: Adventures in Cologne, Germany

When our Viking longship arrived on Friday, July 28, in Cologne, the fourth largest city in Germany, I was feeling the effects of a cold. I decided to sleep in while Daisy went on the included walking tour of the city. We both had the afternoon to get some rest before our optional Beer Culture Dinner in the evening.

Day 13, Friday, July 28

This was our early morning view of Cologne (Koln) from our stateroom. with the Cologne Cathedral on the right. Cologne was founded in 38 BC and was a cornerstone of the Roman Empire in northern Europe. Its location on the Rhine River placed Cologne at the intersection of major trade routes and became the basis for its economic growth. The most crucial date in Cologne’s medieval history was 1164, when what are supposedly relics of the Three Magi were presented to the archbishop. This resulted in countless pilgrims filling the city’s coffers, which financed the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe.

The Cologne Cathedral was begun in 1248 and its chancel was consecrated in 1322. Thereafter, work on the nave and transepts proceeded sporadically until finally being abandoned in 1560. In 1843, Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia inaugurated a new construction campaign that led to the completion of the two 510-foot-tall west spires in 1880.

This is a work of art.

During World War II, Cologne endured 262 air raids by the Western Allies, which caused approximately 20,000 civilian casualties with 72% of the city being destroyed. The bombardments almost completely wiped out the central part of the city. However, as this U.S. Army photo from April 1945 shows, the Cologne Cathedral received serious damage but the main structure survived almost unscathed. It has been reported that Allied bombers were instructed to avoid the Cathedral when possible because it served as an excellent navigational landmark.

The interior of the Cologne Cathedral is a defining work of High Gothic architecture. It is about 470 feet long, 145 feet wide, and a stunning 141 feet high. On the upper left side is the “swallows’ nest” organ that was built into the gallery in 1998 to celebrate the 750^th anniversary of the initial building. The Cathedral was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 and is Germany’s most visited landmark.

The Cathedral has many beautiful stained-glass windows, some of which were removed and stored for protection during World War II.

The window in the south transept was destroyed by the bombing, and the space was temporarily filled with plain glass. In 2007, the cathedral received a new stained-glass window, created by the German artist Gerhard Richter. It has 1,220 square feet of glass, composed of 11,500 4” by 4” squares of colored glass resembling pixels, randomly arranged by computer, which create a colorful "carpet.” This window design has been controversial, with some people seeing it as sacrilegious and others as a bridge to the 21^st century.

South Transept Window

The Old Market Square features the large Heinzelmännchen Fountain, which was built in 1899. Its center statue and carved panels tell the story of the Heinzelmännchen, the little people who did all the work at night so that the people of Cologne could laze around during the day. No one ever saw them, and in return for the work, one of their demands was that they were never to be seen or disturbed. During this time, there was a tailor to whom the gnomes took a liking. When the tailor’s family increased in size, the little ones gave the tailor’s wife much help with her household tasks. One night the she became too curious and wanted to see one of these Heinzelmännchen. She spilled some dried peas on the stairs to make them trip and fall so that she could see them during the day. Needless to say, the Heinzelmännchen were not pleased and they left town and never came back again.  From then on, the citizens of Cologne had to do all the work themselves.

Our new friend Debbie took this picture of Daisy in the Old Market Square by the Heinzelmännchen Fountain.

Heinzelmännchen Fountain

In the center of the Alter Markt, the biggest square in Cologne’s old town, stands a fountain with a statue of Jan van Werth that dates to 1884.

The stone statue of Jan van Werth is on a gothic column. The seated figures on the north and south side represent the valor and purity of the city of Cologne: the Cologne Farmer and the Cologne Virgin.

Then there are two stone plaques that supposedly tell a personal story of the German General of Cavalry, Jan Van Werth, a local hero.  His life became a popular legend in the Rhineland and Cologne that is reenacted at carnival time.

The legend goes like this…

The poor peasant Jan fell in love with Griet, another poor peasant, but she wanted a wealthier partner and declined his offer of marriage. Devastated by her rejection he came upon an army recruiter and signed up to go to war. Through hard work and good fortune he rose to become a general, celebrating several victories.

After taking the fort at Hermannstein he was leading his triumphant troops into Cologne through St. Severin's Gate when he saw his former love Griet selling fruit at a market. Griet was filled with regret at turning down such a successful person and exclaimed "Jan, who would have thought it?" To this, he replied "Griet, the person who should have done it!" and turned away.

Town Hall

On the other side of the square there was a more modern story taking place concerning marriage procedures in Cologne.  At the Old Town Hall, there were small clusters of people with wedding gowns and flowers departing from the Hall after being officially married by the judicial powers.

It seems that this was the second marriage ceremony each couple had done that day.  You are allowed to get married in a church or other setting but to make it legal, a ceremony had to be performed in the Old Town Hall officiated by the city legal authority.  Upon leaving, drinks would be consumed in the courtyard toasting the couple after some informal practice took place. Our group observed a large heart being cut out of a decorated sheet by the newly married couple. After this, the groom stepped through the heart carrying the bride. 

Daisy and Debbie shopped a bit of course, then returned to the ship for lunch and a rest. We had signed up for a Friday night “Beer Culture Dinner,” so a rest period was called for.

That evening, we participated in an opportunity to immerse ourselves in Cologne’s lively brauhaus culture and sample the pride of the city. We strolled through the Old Town’s cobblestone streets with their many sidewalk cafes.

At our first stop, the Colner Hofbrau Fruh, we had dinner with our friend Debbie and our first opportunity to sip Kolsch fresh from the barrel. Kolsch is produced by about 25 breweries in the city.  On this dinner tour we visited and sampled 3 of them.

Today's German beer connoisseurs tend to be loyal to a style rather than a brand of beer.  Kolsch beer is one of the many styles and is served chilled and fresh by waiters called kobes. they carry the Kolsch to your table on a circular tray called a crown, which is designed for the Kolsch glasses, called stangen.

Marinated beef with dumplings and stewed apples were the main course.

Kolsch is not only the name of Cologne’s famous light and crisp beer, it is also the name of the local dialect. This has led to the common joke of Kolsch being the only language one can drink.

This photo was taken at our second brew house. Our tour guide is on the left, and on the right our server has the traditional tray that holds a dozen glasses, each of which contains only .2 liter (about 7 ounces). This is small enough that you can finish the beer while it is still cold.

Chip and Debbie were sharing brews with more of our new friends. It was Friday night in Cologne, and it was fun to be bar hopping with not only tourists but also the local citizens.

The coasters at this and other brew houses served an additional purpose. As long as your coaster is under your glass, the server will keep replacing your empty glass with a full one. The only way to prevent this is to put your coaster on top of your empty glass!

There was a sign on the wall that read ”Good food and drink keep body and soul together.”  We agree!

We got back to our ship about 10:00 p.m. The departure had been delayed so that everyone could enjoy a special evening this exciting city.

We went to the upper deck to watch our ship sail past the downtown area, and Daisy took this photo as we said goodbye to the Cologne Cathedral with its dramatic lighting.

Cologne is known for its Roman heritage in its city layout and its modern plaza and ancient ruins host enticing restaurants, cologne boutiques, and Kolsch brewhouses. This is a city to return to.